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Table of Contents:
How to get to Portofino from Genoa
How to get to Portofino from Milan
When to travel to Portofino
Portofino is a famous resort on the shore of the Ligurian Riviera. Portofino is a quite small town; tourists come here mainly to admire the local sea scenery and the marvelous mountain views. The Portofino National Park is located around the town. There are no direct transport connections between the major cities of Italy and Portofino, so during the trip you will have to make some changes and use different means of transport, but it is worth it.
After some research, I decided to put together information I have previously found out and create a complete guide on how to organize a holiday in Portofino. I figured out how to get to the resort, where to stay & what to see there. I really hope this detailed information will help you plan your trip to Portofino.
The swimming period on the Ligurian shore lasts from June until the middle of September, sometimes even longer. But tourists come to Portofino all year round as it is a scenic place to stay in and travel around. Portofino is not all about beach holidays as there are no wide sandy beaches at all. In my opinion, Portofino is mainly about picturesque natural landscapes, colorful architecture, authentic gastronomy, high-quality service and unique vibes. For all these things you can come to Portofino any season of the year.
How to get to Portofino
Where do you fly into to get to Portofino? The closest major cities to Portofino with international airports are Milan and Genoa. You can check the current flight timetable via specialized online services such as Aviasales and other similar ones. I usually use Aviasales when planning my trips, because it can compare a great variety of available flight options. You can get to Portofino from Milan or Genoa via Santa Margherita Ligure, the town closest to Portofino with train and bus stations (there are none in Portofino). Another option, more exotic, but also more interesting, is to use water transport from Genoa, which goes directly to Portofino.
How to get to Portofino from Genoa
Genoa is the nearest major city, located 40 km from Portofino. As I found out, tourists can get directly from Genoa to Portofino by water transport (by boat trip), but only during the summer time. You can also travel by train via Santa Margherita Ligure at any time of the year. Travellers, who like to move around on their own, can use a rented car to reach the destination.
By train: There are no direct trains from Genoa to Portofino as there is no train station in Portofino. The nearest station is located in Santa Margherita Ligure, which is 5 km away. Regional trains to Santa Margherita Ligure run every half an hour from Genova Brignole Station. The travel time is 25-30 minutes. You can check the current train timetable and purchase tickets in advance at the Raileurope booking service. It is one of my favourite online services for planning trips around Europe and I can definitely recommend it.
Then from Santa Margherita Ligure you can get directly to Portofino either by bus # 82 or by taxi. The bus stop is located very close to the train station; just go down to the beach and turn right.
By water transport: In the summer, you can also use the boat trips that depart from the Genovese port of Antico, which is located near the Aquarium of Genoa. This trip usually takes about 2 hours, during which you have the opportunity to enjoy views of the shoreline of the Italian Riviera. Boat trips are provided by Battellieri; the first boat departs at 9.30 am. Tickets can be purchased at the port ticket office.
By rented car: One of the most convenient and reliable ways to get to Portofino is to rent a car in Genoa. This will allow you to avoid problems with public transport and make changes along the route. Renting a car in Genoa is considered to be an inexpensive option, and it will allow you to see the most remote corners of Liguria, where trains do not go. The towns are connected with #A12/E80 road via Recco/Camogli or Rapallo. The distance is about 35-40 km, depending on the chosen route (see on the map).
You can book the desired class of car in advance via various car rental services. During the holiday season, early booking will allow you to choose the best option, as Genoa is a popular tourist destination. You can use such international online services as Discover Cars, Economybookings and some others. To rent a car you need to have a passport, a driver`s license and a bank card. Based on my experience, both online services mentioned above have a decent search and a lot of useful options so I would recommend using them both and comparing the results.
How to get to Portofino from Milan
There is no direct train connection between Milan and Portofino, so, as in the case of Genoa, you must first get to Santa Margherita Ligure and then to Portofino. The other option is to rent a car. It will allow you to get to Portofino from Milan directly without making changes along the route.
By train: During the day, there are both direct and indirect trains from Milan to Santa Margherita Ligure (the nearest train station to Portofino). The travel time by direct train is about 2.5 hours. The travel time by train with a change in Genoa is a little longer, about 3 hours. You can check the current train timetable and purchase tickets in advance at the Raileurope booking service. You can purchase train tickets to Santa Margherita Ligure from Milan either at the station ticket office or online. I tried both variants and as a rule when booking online in advance I have more options available.
Further in Santa Margherita Ligure, you need to walk from the train station to the bus stop (down to the beach and to the right) and take bus #82, which goes directly to Portofino.
By a rented car: In Milan, the car rental option is very popular. You can find rental offices in Milan both in the city and at the airport. The distance between Milan and Portofino is 177 km. They are connected with highway No. A7 which runs via Genoa (see on the map). If you are going to visit Portofino, I would recommend combining a visit to this town with other colorful towns of the Ligurian shore, such as Camogli, Rapallo and Sestri Levante. To travel around Liguria on your own, you can book a car in advance via specialized online services such as Discover Cars, Economybookings, etc. In my point of view, it will definitely save your time on the spot.
Where to stay in Portofino
Due to the fact that Portofino is a very small town, the number of accommodations here is limited, and prices per night in a hotel are on average higher than in neighboring, larger towns. As I discovered, Portofino hotels are divided into 5, 4, 3-stars hotels, and you can also find such accommodation options as apartments. The hotels have a convenient location, and the main attractions are within walking distance. After some research I did a list of popular accommodation options in Portofino and it includes the following hotels:
Belmond Hotel Splendido & Belmond Splendido Mare 5* belongs to the category of Portofino 5-star hotels and is divided into 2 buildings. One is located on a hill with views of the Riviera, and the other is close to the central square. The hotel has an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness center, a sauna, private parking and free Wi-Fi. Portofino Beach is in short walking distance;
Eight Hotel Portofino 5* is located within walking distance to the beach. The hotel has its own terrace, sauna and Turkish bath. Free parking is available, but the number of places are limited. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel;
Hotel Piccolo Portofino 4* is located in a historical building with a panoramic terrace and has its own beach area. There are many restaurants, cafes and bars in the surrounding area of the hotel. The hotel provides parking services and free Wi-Fi. The hotel also has a restaurant in its area. All hotel rooms are divided into classic, superior and deluxe categories;
Albergo Nazionale 3* is located in the central square of the town, within a 10-minute walk from the sea. Some rooms have picturesque views on the shore. Depending on the room type, breakfast may be included in the price. As online booking services provide tourists reviews, I found out that there are several pizzerias, restaurants and cafes within walking distance from the hotel.
What to see in Portofino
Portofino is considered to be one of the most famous resorts on the shore of the Italian Riviera. Once fishing village, today Portofino is one of the most famous resorts in Italy. Portofino is located in a cozy small bay, which is full of snow-white yachts and boats. The architecture of the town, as in most Ligurian resorts, consists of colorful houses nestled on rocky shores; from my perspective, they give a special vibe to the place.
Piazzetta
The Piazzetta is the pedestrian square, surrounded with colorful houses on one side and a bay on the other. Next door is the 12th century St. Martin’s Church. The style of the church can be described as Romanesque. Inside the church you can find many interesting works of art, ranging from paintings and sculptures to icons.
Castle Brown
Among the attractions of Portofino, Castle Brown, located at the highest point of the town, occupies a special place. It can be seen from almost every street of the town. You can climb to the castle on foot; although the path here goes uphill, it does not have very steep turns. The stone castle overlooks the Gulf of Tigullio, surrounded by forests and gardens. Once you go up the hill, you can simply stroll through the garden to find the best panoramic view of the Gulf.
Portofino Lighthouse and Church of St. George
The Portofino Lighthouse and the Church of St. George are also located on a hill, within walking distance of each other. It’s worth going up here if only to see the Gulf of Tigullio from a new angle; the views here are no worse than from Castle Brown. The lighthouse is located on the very cliff of a rocky mountain; it is often called the “gateway” to Portofino Bay. The Church of St. George has a long history, which dates back to the 12th century, and although the church itself is quite modest in size, the panoramic deck next to it offers stunning views, in my opinion.
Regional Natural Park of Portofino
Another way to diversify your holiday in Portofino is to walk around the Natural Park, which stretches from Portofino to Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo. The park has special hiking routes, walking along which you can discover new views of the local nature and the sea. The forests in the park are entirely coniferous, but not dense, so walking here is quite comfortable. In addition, literally around every turn a new view of the raging sea opens up. Among other things, the park includes ancient churches and monasteries, which can be reached by following the signs. The mountain peak of Monte Portofino, which is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is also of particular interest.
Beaches of Portofino
It’s hard to imagine a holiday in Portofino without water, because the town is located right on the seashore. Please, note that you will not find extensive sandy beaches in Portofino, since the shore here is rocky. There are stone platforms in the town center and some private beach areas which belong to the hotels. Visiting private beaches is possible at an additional cost. Moreover, even if you pay, you shouldn’t expect much from the local beaches, since the beach areas here are very tiny, and the entrance to the water can be quite rocky.
The paradise Paraggi beach, located a few hundred meters from Portofino, can be a way out of the situation. You can get there on foot (it will take some time) or by car. Paraggi beach is sandy, which is very rare for the Ligurian shore, and the water here is pretty turquoise. A gentle entrance to the sea is also an advantage of this place. I would say that this is the most favorable place for swimming in the Portofino area.
As I see it, Portofino is more for relaxing at the shore than it is for swimming in the sea. There are a lot of interesting hiking routes, architectural sights, restaurants and cafes with authentic food and excellent quality services in Portofino, but the beaches are quite small and look like stone platforms without a gentle entrance to the sea. To relax on a sandy beach, you can explore neighboring villages, for example, Paraggi, San Fruttouso and some others.
Take a note! When going on a trip to Italy, do not forget to take out travel insurance, which is useful for receiving a tourist visa and for solving emerging medical problems when travelling in another country. You can purchase insurance via online services, for example, via EKTA and others. You can choose from different modes, including quiet, active or extreme rest.
Photo above the article: buothz
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Julia is an experienced traveller, BA in International Relations and Languages and true lover of planning trips in advance. Learn more about the author…